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Revelatory. That is how Anna Higham describes the oats she sources for the pastry, breads and dessert she bakes in Flor, Borough Market, and in its Michelin starred older brother Lyle’s. I pause for the punchline – but Higham isn’t joking. A pastry chef who spends her working life elbow-deep in grain, in Higham’s native Scotland, porridge is not dull, humble or virtuous but quite simply par for the course.
