t the end of any decade, it is customary to reflect on what changed within it and who was responsible. This can be a vexed and controversial enterprise when you’re thinking about politics and trying to argue that it was all, say, Sarah Palin’s fault, but it needn’t tear us apart if we’re talking about food.
listed 12 of his heroes, including Dishoom (delicious), Viajante (totally rad) and Bao (a testament to the enduring, universal love of anything at all when it’s stuffed in a tiny bap).